![]() ![]() The basement walls were framed out 2x4 walls with 3 1/2" Kraft backed fiberglass between the studs. I'm remodeling the basement bathroom and replacing a fiberglass shower with tile. The basement in my home was finished 20 to 25 years ago (we have been here for 4 years). If anything, you've gone a bit better than many I've seen that use 1 x 2 's glued. ![]() :)Īlthough I'm not a "pro" I've seen a whole lot of basements in Michigan that are framed out close to what you've done. If the masonry wall remains relatively dry as you suggest, you may get along just fine. I think I wouldn't bother.Ībsent taking down what you've done and starting over, I'd suggest you just continue on as you were. Indeed, I think you could make the situation worse. I don't think applying any kind of brush-on barrier will do much good if it isn't applied unbroken behind the studs, which is the case here. ![]() What you want is a way for any moisture that gets into that stud wall to be able to make its way out. I would also recommend that you leave that wall cavity completely open at the top if possible, or as open as you can manage. But the very worst thing you could do at this point is to apply poly to the inside of the stud wall - that is, between the studs and the sheetrock. ![]() In your situation if that masonry wall allows water to enter the stud wall cavity, you're gonna have rot eventually. I expect that is because any water that does get into the wall cavity will eventually find its way to that area.īut, as Rob and others have said, I have only seen rot in such areas when water had found its way there from unwanted leakage of some sort. My experience has been that any rot you are going to see in such walls (or any exterior walls for that matter) is going to occur at the sill plate. When I have concrete walls below grade (earth berm, etc.), I apply a Portland-based waterproofing product (there are many) and frame directly against the wall, again with treated wood, but it would not bother me much if someone put un-treated wood there, except for the sill plate. On new construction on concrete slabs (we don't do basements here) I always use treated wood (KDAT so it doesn't shrink) for the bottom plates on the framing - directly on the concrete. I do have a sump pump and the basement is quite dry in general. I'm curious if I should do anything else before I begin painting the wall and sides of the studs to avoid rotting of the wood in case of condensation/flooding. I'm concerned about rotting of the wood that is in contact with the wall (a full set of studs is also touching the floor(horizontally), which I understand should have been raised 1"). I was also advised to drill 3/4" holes in the top and bottom of the studs(from one side to the opposite side, to allow for moisture to escape if it builds up. I was told by a Home Depot worker to waterproof the walls with a latex product called DryLock and to also paint the edges of the wood studs, leaving the fronts unpainted. I am planning to use the pink 3/4" Foamular insulation with 1/2" greenrock. I used I didn't put a plastic vapor barrier up behind the studs and I still haven't put up drywall or insulation. The walls have some kind of paint on them, but I'm not sure how waterproof they are. I had a friend help me by nailing 2x3 kd wood studs directly into the basement cement walls with a Hilte gun(2.5 inch side flat against wall). I recently enjoyed reading John's dryrot article and I thought that my particular issue might be of help to others on this forum. ![]()
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